Wednesday, January 20, 2016 - Travel Day 12, Expedition Day 4
A pervasive dark gray cloud that shrouded the sun created a stunning contrast with white and blue green icebergs in the morning light. The wind was nearly non-existent as we boarded our Zodiacs for the AM expedition. Today we set foot on land in Antarctica below the polar circle.
The plan this morning is to cruise through the ice fields and visit the now closed British Base 12 station on Detaille Island in the Lallemand Fjord, Loubet Coast, 66 52 S, 66 48 W in Crystal Sound that was closed in 1959 and has remained completely intact as if the men had just left.
It is a historical sight and a part of the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust. It is an authentic step back in time and presentment of the harsh and dreary conditions of living in Antarctica. We took the coordinates and plan to register a world cache (virtual) here. It will probably be the most remote and infrequently found cache in the world.
The plan this morning is to cruise through the ice fields and visit the now closed British Base 12 station on Detaille Island in the Lallemand Fjord, Loubet Coast, 66 52 S, 66 48 W in Crystal Sound that was closed in 1959 and has remained completely intact as if the men had just left.
Before we got to the base station we saw some more Adelie penguin colonies, one with some chicks, numerous cormarands, and impressively large icebergs, polar sculptures in a frozen wonderland. The penguins are incredibly funny and fun loving creatures, hopping from rock to rock, sliding down the slopes like slippery, plump pillows, and porpoising through the water.
When we landed at the station, we had to scramble up some rocky outcroppings to the snow field. After crossing Drake's Passage and cruising in dinghies for two days, it took a few minutes to regain our land legs. We brought our own walking sticks, but the expedition team had a stack of them. We were happy to have them as we trudged up the ice field to the station and further up to the top of the hill for some exceptiona l views of the fjord where the sun was not visible, but the golden light shone through the thinner clouds and illuminated some of the glacial fields.
When we landed at the station, we had to scramble up some rocky outcroppings to the snow field. After crossing Drake's Passage and cruising in dinghies for two days, it took a few minutes to regain our land legs. We brought our own walking sticks, but the expedition team had a stack of them. We were happy to have them as we trudged up the ice field to the station and further up to the top of the hill for some exceptiona l views of the fjord where the sun was not visible, but the golden light shone through the thinner clouds and illuminated some of the glacial fields.
When we returned to the Ocean Diamond, we watched the second half of Endurance, the story of Shackleton and his crew. This is an amazing story, but even more so watching it here after visiting the base station and experiencing just a fraction of a the chill in a summer climate.
After lunch our second excursion was in the same fjord. We were told from the onset that it would be highly improbable to see any Emperor Penguins. This is generally not a local that they are found, but surprise!
The expedition team was jubilant because for many of them this was their first time seeing the Emperors with the rest of us. In total we saw 4 Emperor penguins that stand about a meter and half high and are three times the size of the little Adelies. The big boys were molting and have perfected the art of standing completely still.
I got a pretty funny picture of one of the penguins bending his neck backward, his head disappearing behind his back. From my camera perspective, he looks headless. We laughed aloud when we saw it!
The expedition team was jubilant because for many of them this was their first time seeing the Emperors with the rest of us. In total we saw 4 Emperor penguins that stand about a meter and half high and are three times the size of the little Adelies. The big boys were molting and have perfected the art of standing completely still.
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| Hey! Has anyone seen an extra head? |
We also had the opportunity to see an adolescent elephant seal,
and of course a lot more weather sculpted icebergs. By the time we returned from our PM excursion the wind had picked up and we were happy to board the ship. Once the Zodiacs were hoisted on deck and everyone was accounted for, the Diamond made her way out to sea. The captain had hoped to take the inner passage, but the wind was coming from the continent, and it was milder outside the passage and the lee side of Adelaide Island. Even at that, the wind was blowing 45 knots on our starboard side and we were listing 10-15 degrees to port.
and of course a lot more weather sculpted icebergs. By the time we returned from our PM excursion the wind had picked up and we were happy to board the ship. Once the Zodiacs were hoisted on deck and everyone was accounted for, the Diamond made her way out to sea. The captain had hoped to take the inner passage, but the wind was coming from the continent, and it was milder outside the passage and the lee side of Adelaide Island. Even at that, the wind was blowing 45 knots on our starboard side and we were listing 10-15 degrees to port.
Russ and I went up to the bridge and were glad we were not in charge of navigating in these conditions. The snow was falling, the wind was blowing, the the crew was dodging icebergs, 2 degrees port, 5 degrees starboard, 1 degree port......at about 12 knots per hour. We could hear the hull hitting some of the small bergs and crunching along the side. Yep time to go to bed and pull the covers over our heads. By tomorrow morning we will be above the Antarctic Circle.
All is Well With The Worrall Travel R's in Antarctica
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