Phallic Symbols

Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Days 3 Punakha

 

 We drive from Thimphu to Punakha (approx. 3-4 hrs). After passing through the Honsho checkpoint, the road climbs up through maple and blue pine forests to the Dochu La Pass (3,100 m). Here, if the sky is clear, we catch spectacular views of the Bhutan Himalayas. According to Bhutanese myths, the area around the pass is holy and inhabited by a variety of spirits.

 

As we begin our descent from the pass, we can note the change in vegetation. Maples and pines give way to rhododendrons, cypress, hemlock and fir. Also prominent is the daphne, related to our laurel and used for paper-making. We will make stops along the way and stroll into the forests to identify the many regional plants.

 

Towards the evening we will visit the legendary Chimi Lhakhang, also known as the 'temple of the divine madman', after the Lama Drukpa Kunley who introduced a new way of Buddhist practice during his era and is associated with the phallic symbols used on Bhutanese houses as talismans.

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We checked out of our hotel at 10:00 a.m. and drove up the mountainside where a giant sitting Buddha (present sitting position) is being constructed., After three years it looks close to completion and is already attracting the devout and prayer flags.  It is one of the largest in the world.  To give you an idea of it's size, Russ is in the foreground of one of the photos we took and  he appears to be the size of one of the statue's fingernails.  On the inside of the big Buddha there will be 125,000 nested Buddhas.  It is clear enough here to catch some glimpses of snow capped mountains.

On Bhutan's single road from Thimpuh to Punakha, our small bus snaked up the mountains from 7,000 feet to 10,000 feet.  The road is narrow, windy, and being widened, so much of it is under construction, bumpy and dusty.  There is evidence of rock slides and there is regular seismic activity here.  

At the top of the pass where a Buddhist temple and 108 choetens - stupas, have been constructed.  The day is a bit overcast so we cannot see the mountain peaks of the Himalayas.  Nevertheless, the views are beautiful and serene.

Men and their penises - Roz's Rant!

We descend into a valley where we trek from one hillside across the valley and up the other side to the temple of the divine madman.  Bhutan's Buddhism has been influenced by By Lama Drukpa Kunley in the 14th century who believed he could subdue evil female demons with his penis..really a way to rationaliezeto womanize.  His legend continues and now phallic symbols adorn houses to keep evil spirits out.  

It is always amazing to me how men around the world have historically justified their sexual drive and uncontrolled passions to possess, subdue, and control women as a religious practice, then flaunt their appendages as bigger than life and divine.  While we are amused by some of the arts and handicrafts, I find this cultural message, that is still  a part of Bhutan today, disturbing. The alters have sculptures of this madman monk subduing the woman who is in the form of a demon.  

We are learning and listening to the stories and legends and wondering how the culture today incorporates all of this in their religious psyches.

All is Well with the Worrall Travel R's