We anchored out about a mile north of the harbor. There were three large cruise ships from Carnival and Princess lines anchored just outside the harbor. It would mean a dinghy ride in and out, but would save us about $500.00 in slip fees and the air was fresher and cleaner. Clark and Nina opted to stay on the boat while Russ and I went ashore to get the check in paperwork started, have dinner, and go to Squid Roe in the evening for the survivor party. We went to a small office near the dinghy dock that was a check-in agency. Some cruisers run around and do their own paperwork (port captain fees, immigration fees, etc.) which takes a ½ day or more and a lot of waiting in line. Since we were saving dollars by anchoring out, $50.00 to pay an agent to do the work so we could do other things seemed pretty reasonable.
While walking around, two ladies approached us and wanted to know where they could buy shirts like our - bright coral with a large green chili pepper that say “Some like it hot! - Baja Ha Ha”. We explained they would have to sail from San Diego to Cabo to get one because they weren’t for sale. They were disappointed, but there were lots of other vendors on the wharf anxious for their business. Every two steps, there were small children selling chicklets for a peso, and whistles. Adults were busy trying to hawk silver bracelets, hats, bathing suit covers, dresses, sunglasses. It was exhausting saying “no gracias” multiple times every minute depending on how fast we were walking.
The sun was beginning to get low in the sky when we rescued our dingy from the unsecured public dock and motored over to Galatea’s side tie on J dock where we tied up for the evening. Along with Doug, Catherine, Dick, and Dave, we went to dinner at the Baja Cantina along the wharf, returned to Galatea for some concertina music, courtesy of Catherine, and walked a couple of blocks to Squid Roe. Squid Rod is a funky three story bar with open air roof. The balconies look down on the dance floor. By 9:00 p.m. the place was rocking with Baja Ha Ha fleet drinking beers, Margaritas, and dancing body to body on the small dance floor . Waiters with steaming, sizzling plates of food high over their heads maneuvered through the throngs of dancers. Everyone was happy to have completed the trip and many stories were being told and retold about the fish, the broken boat parts, the boat bites (bruised ribs, knees, arms), the sometimes mutinous crew. All and all it was great fun.
We returned to the dinghy, then out to Worrall Wind. Our friend the moon that had helped us through our watches was absent, as were the huge cruise ships. The stars were beautiful, but the water was inky as we made our back to the boat. Clark and Nina were fast a sleep. All of the doors, hatches, and ports were wide open and a lovely breeze blew through the boat. We hoisted the motor off of the dinghy and tethered the dinghy behind the boat. We didn’t think anyone would come out and take the dinghy especially without the motor attached.
Friday, November 6, 2009
It was nice to get up and not have to sail anywhere. We had a leisurely breakfast, then all went into town where we did some provisioning at City Club, which was like a Costco, but within walking distance of the wharf. The produce didn’t look to good, so we decided we have to go elsewhere for the rest of the supplies, but not on Friday.
There was a 12:30 Baja Ha Ha beach party we wanted to attend. Russ and Clark took the dinghy with groceries to the boat while Nina and I walked along the beach to the Cantina where the cruisers were meeting. The day was warm and shade was a premium. Nina held down a place in the shade amidst all of the cruisers and I went outside the designated area to flag down Russ and Clark as they returned from Worrall Wind. I stood in the sun for a while, then noticed a beach umbrella with no one under it. I squatted under the umbrella for nearly a half hour, no one objected. A beach umbrella is now on the have to get list. We enjoyed lunch, beer, and music, then returned to the boat for chores, siestas, and cold showers. During the day, we had gone back to the agency to collect our paperwork but it wasn’t ready…..something about the immigration department running out of paper. Manana!
Saturday, November 7, 2009
Today, was another shopping adventure. We caught a local bus to go to a grocery store, called CCC, pronounced say say say, but along the route was a Costco, so our contingent of cruisers got off there. Yes! Beach umbrellas. The Mexican Costco, looks just like the Costco’s in America, but most of the product labeling is in Spanish. We loaded up on some nice looking produce, got a big jar of peanut butter, and a bag of coffee beans which we ground before we left. The only things we couldn’t fine were cauliflower and milk in small ½ gallon containers. By this time however, we were maxed out in terms of filling our bags. We bargained with some of our other cruiser friends to get what we needed in exchange for us hauling their Costco groceries back to their boat so they could continue on to CCC without hauling so much. This worked out well for both of us. We got our groceries and they were free to buy and carry gobs more back to their boat.
It was time to cool off, so we went to Starbucks for iced lattes and some quality Internet time. Clark and Nina made their plane reservations back to Sacramento and I finally got a chance to post a blog, but only the text as the photos took forever. Russ finally was able to pick up our finished check-in paperwork. We spent the late afternoon walking around the older section of La Paz and visited the museum in the town square. A street artist was chalking in some lovely pictures in the squares outside of the museum.
We returned to the Puerto Paradisio at 6:00 p.m. where the Baja Ha Ha fleet was assembling for the last time before splitting off and going their ways.
The awards party went on much longer than we anticipated, well after 9:00 p.m. We received a third place award in our division, but so did about 10 other boats. No one comes in last in the Baja Ha Ha! Thank goodness, I think we were spared some embarrassment! Awards were given out for oldest cruiser (turning 80 next month) and youngest cruiser (2 years old). There were probably 10-12 children ranging from 2-16 on the rally. There were boat bite awards, best imitations of crew snoring, naked sailors, biggest fish, and most chatty on the net. It was an amusing evening. The captain from the J-boat “J World” whose boat was hit by a whale, sank, and crew rescued by USCG and been flown into Cabo to give us an account of what happened.
On Wednesday October 28, when the seas were at their largest 18-30 feet, their boat was surfing down a large wave and while doing so smacked into a whale. Both the whale and boat were damaged. The injured whale may have retaliated a bit by ramming the boat a couple of times. Blood gushed from the whale, and a large hole appeared where the rudder should have been. J boats are made for racing and the hull and fin keel and rudder are not meant for whale bashing. It was obvious to the captain, that there was no way to repair a huge opening or keep the boat afloat by bailing. She set off her epirb (emergency beacon with coordinates) and they got into the life raft hoping, but not knowing for sure that their epirb was working. The boat was sinking so fast that the SSB radio was underwater before they could transmit a Mayday signal.
The captain reported to us they were in the life raft for about 4 hours. It was dark, the seas were rolling them around uncontrollably. It was like being in a washing machine Three of the five crew members were vomiting because of sea sickness. It was very scary not knowing whether they would be rescued. A US Coast Guard helicopter and diver were a welcome sound in the darkness. Each member was hoisted into the helicopter and taken to San Diego. The skipper of J World was given the Spirit of Baja Ha Ha award for taking all of the appropriate measures in an emergency and saving her crew. A full account of their adventure will be in the next edition of Latitude 38. Somebody, please get one for us and save it. (It will either be the November or December issue). We’d like to have a copy of it. Abby can bring it to us when she visits us as Christmas in Puerto Vallarta.
The Baja Ha Ha was now officially over. Folks shared where they were going next and bade their farewells. We had a lot of fun, met some very nice people, and developed a community of recognizable cruising boats that we will undoubtedly see in many places. We didn’t need assistance during the Baja Ha Ha, but it was nice to know there were cruisers close by that could be called on if we needed help. Several boats received parts, assistance, and tows from fellow cruisers. Now we would be on our own. The routine morning check-in on the radio net could now be replaced by one of the operating cruise HAM nets. We haven’t yet gotten our Mexican HAM license. So for the time being we are just listening to the nets and have yet to check in. We will get this taken care of in La Paz when we arrive on November 17.
The schedules we make now will be our own. After the final party, we returned to the boat quite hungry but also tired. We ate some eggs and sandwiches and went to bed. Tomorrow we would strike out on our own.
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