Cluj Napoca – Maramures: Culture and Folk Lore, Tour Day 3, WTRD 13, Aug 22, 2016

Cluj Napoca Tour – Maramures

The small hotel we stayed in last night was very comfortable. The breakfast room had only enough room for about 12 people. We were early enough 7:30, that we did not have to compete for seats, but it was a good thing we were leaving at 8:15 and vacated the breakfast room by 8:00 when another group was flowing in.

According to our guide George, Romania does not have an immigration, refugee problem. Romania is not a part of the Schengen agreement so they do not have to take refugees, but most of the refugees apparently are not interested in migrating to Romania because of its lower socioeconomic status. Romania has lost about 5,000,000 million people from the last census, migrating out of Romania. Unemployment is low because of the baby boomer retirements opening jobs to younger people.

A hold over from communist times, Romania has universal healthcare of sorts. It doesn't pay for surgeries. Dental care is not included. Not sure what else it doesn't cover, but it sounds very basic.

Our guide tells us a joke explaining Romanian culture: An Italian, a German, and a Romanian, died and were being interviewed by St. Peter at the Pearly Gates. He asked the Italian how he died. The Italian replied,"I was driving my Ferrari and driving 300 kilometers per hour when I hit a wall, and I died." "Ok, come in", St Peter said and opened the gate. St. Peter then asked the German how he died. The German replied, "I was driving my BMW and driving 200 kilometers per hour, hit a cow, and I died. "Ok, come in", St Peter said and opened the gate. He then asked the Romanian how he died, and the Romanian replied, "I was driving my BMW, and I starved to death." Apparently showing off and keeping up is a part of the Romanian mindset

We were on the road driving north toward the region of Maramures (northern Transylvania), close to the border of Romania and the Ukraine. Through long agricultural valleys of corn, hay, sunflowers and small villages we traveled until we began a more twisted ride uphill into the low mountains. The vegetation is both deciduous and evergreen, firs and pines.

As we drive further into the mountains, there is more mining and industrial buildings to refine the metals extracted from the lands. The landscape is covered with smog. You can smell the industry here.All of the metal components on the Eiffel Tower, came from Romania. The third highest cooling tower in Europe of 1000 feet is here in the mountains. The structure is concrete, resistant to earthquakes and the inside has special bricks to trap pollutants.

Due to the relative isolation of their land, the people of Maramures developed a particularly strong community with a unique personality, traditions, culture, fashion and lifestyle unspoiled for centuries.

Our first visit is to the early 1720's Church of Surdesti, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and until recently the tallest and oldest wooden structure in Europe. This is a good opportunity to learn about the Uniate Church (Greek Originally, this church was a Greek Catholic Church, not Greek Orthodox and there was a law that no stone and mortar tower could be taller than the state church, so the Greek Catholics subverted the tower law by building a tall tower made of wood.

During the communist era, the Greek Catholic church was given to the state church. Today, both the Greek Catholics and Greek Orthodox share the wooden church. The surrounding grave yard is old and ill kept and looked as if it is no longer used. However, as I worked my way out to the graveyard to get a better photo perspective of the church tower, there was a new grave of a man born in 1933. It was an interesting stop.

There is a local dowry tradition here in the mountains and the Iza Valley. Girls coming into marriageable age begin to collect things for their wedding. Ceramic pots were an important item to have. The young woman and her family would place pots in the tree. Prospective suitors would watch as the pots were place upwards toward the top of a tree in the garden. When the top pot was placed, it was a signal that the girls was ready to be married and would accept suitors.

A one point in our drive through the mountains, we came to a small hill, called a magnetic hill. The driver of our van, turned of the engine and took his foot off the brake. The van appeared to move upward as it was pulled by an invisible force "up the hill." Russ assures me it was an optical illusion, but it sure looked like we were going up hill. Hmmm. Will have to do a little research on this.

Our troup stopped for lunch, huge bowls of soup. Russ, ordered a cold cut plate, but I ordered the Hungarian Goulash and it was terrific.

After lunch we visited the Anti-Communist Memorial - a political prison in the Communist times. This is one of the main memorial sites of the continent, alongside Auschwitz Museum and the Peace Memorial in Normandy.

Locations of Political Prisons in Romania

Not only were Jews exterminated, but all who were against communism, human rights, who spoke out and dissented against the establishment. Up until 1989 when the communist government was overthrown, 2.3 MILLION Romanians were exterminated.  Despite that all of the exhibits were not in English, we've been to enough of these infamous prisons to know it was the last torturous stop for those who were incarcerated here. WHY as human beings are we so afraid of dissent and so vicious for absolute power and agreement?

We think this is all in the past. Well, it's not! Look at Turkey, today. Look at America and the people who think we should keep Muslims out of the country, who think that if you are not a Christian you should get out of the USA, if you do not believe in god, you are angry and the anti-christ; if you are gay, you are an abomination; if you are not white, you are inferior; if you are a woman, you are inferior. What is the matter with us as human beings that we are so willing to demonize and persecute, and even execute those not a part of our group of like thinkers? We are sickened by our gross generalities, and rationalized inhumanity towards one another.

We motor west along the Tisa River (very close to the Ukrainian border) and reach the village of Sapinta world famous for its "Merry Cemetery". Here each wooden cross carries a funny epitaph about the person's life. The community wanted to lighten the load of death and celebrate the passage into the next life. This cemetary is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

By the time we have visited the cemetery, we are tired and ready for a nap; however that is not the plan.

We stop briefly at the new tallest wooden church in Romania for photos,

gaze across the river at the Ukraine, and head toward our accommodations which will be home hosted this evening, first with dinner, then exclusively organized Maramurees folklore show, and accommodation.

During a magnificent, thunder, lightening, and rain storm we gather in a large protected gazebo where we drink homemade blueberry, wild cherry , and plum brandy, feast on dinner and dessert, sing, dance, and have a fun evening.

Yes, it tasted as good as it looks.

Now it's off to bed.

All is Well with the Worrall Travel Rs in Northern Romania

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Through the Carpathian Mountains, Day 2 of Tour, WTRD 12, Sunday Aug 21, 2016

Through the Carpathian Mountains

After peaking in on Sunday Mass in an Eastern Orthodox Catholic church

and walking through a fresh, yet-to-be-busy open market, filled with flowers, vegetables, fruits, cheese, and meats.

By 9:30 we were on the road with the travel plan of passing through the Capathian Mountains.

Remnants of medieval fortification culture is still seen in houses in this area. All are fenced in front with central courtyards and the open-air living areas in back.

As we enter Hunedoara, our guide points out that this town is comprised of about 35% wealthy gypsies who have made a boatload of money from nefarious enterprises (Roma mafia, drugs, prostitution, etc.). Gypsy mansions have replaced the horse-drawn wagons. The roofs are quite elaborate.

Our third visitation of the day is Hunedoara (not in the gypsy section) for a guided tour of Huniady Castle - one of the most well preserved medieval castles of Transylvania and home to the mighty Huniady royal family. This is supposedly is one of the less visited castles of Transylvania, but it looked like a lot of tourists new about this place with us. The Gothic architecture with arched ceilings is always impressive.

We spent quite a bit of time driving today and arrived in the late afternoon to Cluj Napoca, the former capital of Transylvania and an important university center. Cluj is the second largest city in Romania with 330,000 (same as all of Iceland) people.

 Cluj was an ancient Hungarian capital. In 1960, Napoca was added to Cluj, to commemorate its Roman History. One fifth of the population is of Hungarian descent and speak Hungarian. Again, we walked around town learning about the churches, the religions, and enjoyed the old buildings including the Feliner Helmer Opera House.

Opera House

Sunset Quintet Playing on Church Balcony

We ate our dinner with friends at an outdoor cafe. There was a sunset quitntet playing on the balcony of the Catholic church. It has been a full day, and we look forward to retiring at Hotel Siago.

All is Well with the Worrall Travel Rs in Cluj Napoca, Transylvania, Romania

Bucharest, Ort River Gorge to Sibiu, WTRD 12, Saturday, Aug 20, 2016

On our way to Transylvania, Day 1 of Tour

The main boulevards this Saturday morning are quiet. Our tour group met our guide George and driver Sandu at 8:00 am, and we take a short tour of the old part of Bucharest and the exterior of the "Peoples" Palace, the Parliament. Russ and I toured the interior 2 years ago when we were here. See Worrall Travel R Blog Index, September 2013.

Old Communist Era Buildings on the outskirts of Bucharest Old Town

After that, we board our small bus, just the right size for our group of eleven, however, the seats are pretty close together so Russ and I felt squished. As we are transported northward to Transylvania, George the guide explains that Romania is on the 45 degree latitude, and climate is considered continental temperate. It is a bit too damp and cool for olive trees. Olive oil here is scarce and expensive. Wheat, corn, and sunflowers are primary crops. Vegetarians are prevalent. Most of the population is Eastern Orthodox Catholic, and there are 4 periods of fasting and every Wednesday and Friday in which the religious population does not eat meat or fish.

George explains the education system. Primary grades are 1-4, grades 5-8 is gymnasium (middle school). Education is free and compulsory through 8th grade. A Capacity Test in the basics, math, Romanian, history or geography are given to all students. Marks on this examination determine the college (high school) student will attend. Better marks, allow entrance to better higher level schools. High school is not compulsory.

Upon receiving a baccalaureate "high school diploma", students in the top 80% receive free tuition, the bottom 20% must pay tuition. If you are in the bottom 20%, and move up in rank because of improved grades, you then qualify for no tuition.

Tuition by American standards is not very expensive in Romania, but very expensive for Romanians. The average Romanian salary is approximately $460 a month. If you are a good student, University is free for your first degrees, bachelors and masters. Professional schools, like medical school, students pay $3,000 a year. Students wanting a second degree, pay tuition for secondary degrees.

George our guide regaled us with information as we drove through a pastoral country side, villages, mountains and the Olt River Gorge.

After a few pit stops including lunch and a stop at a Cozia Monestary established in 1386, 

Cozia Monastery

we arrived in Sibiu which is in the district of Transylvania around 3:30 pm. Sibiu (Hermannstadt), formerly the chief city of the Transylvanian Germans.

The Great and Lesser Squares are the landmarks of the Old Town with the many merchant houses featuring ""the sleepy eye" dormers.

See the Sleepy Eye Dormers - traditional for this area

The city now has 100,000 plus people and is surrounded by three walls (or partial walls) and a sunken walking path that appears to be the original moat, built in the 12th century, towers in the 13th century. 

The old town is very picturesque and looks very German with cobbled streets, tiled, and slate roofs. Both a Catholic and Luthren church tower over the city. There are 22,000 churches in Romania for 18,000,000 people. After the revolution in 1989, Romanians claimed back their religion with fervor from communist rule.

Moat now a walking path.

We walked around the city experiencing the last of summer,

visiting a Romanian Art Museum (Bruckenthal Museum)

and enjoying some of the cars that were arriving early from a road rally.

A Wooden Car

Our accommodations tonight is in Sibiu's famous Romans' Emperor Hotel, (Imparatul Romanilor Hotel) located in the Old Town near the main square, in a 16th century building built in traditional Transylvanian Renaissance style, a former merchant's hall transformed into hotel in the 18th century, with many famous guests: Emperor Franz Joseph II, composers Franz Liszt, Johann Strauss as well as Prince Charles and many others.

In the lavish lobby of the hotel, George and George worked out the final details of the tour's financials...who owed what. It was confusing, but the two of them nailed it down and all was good.

George and George

Tonight we joined George and Lynn from FFSac for dinner at the Crama Sibiul Vechi, the best cellar - restaurants in town, serving authentic Transylvanian fares. Russ had a spicey pork dish and I had fried pork with polenta, cream cheese and sour cream. Atmosphere and food were terrific. We strolled through the main square on our way back to the hotel dipping into some gelato bowls.

All is well with the Worrall Travel R's in Sibiu, Romania.