Soaking in Geothermal Blue Water, WTRD 6, August 14, 2016

Iceland Day 5 - Husavik to Varmahlio via Lake Myvatn

Our journey today is about 259 kilometers. It is 5:00 pm and we are just leaving the Lake Myvatn area leaving about 250 kilometers ago. It's a good thing it stays light so long here in Iceland.

Sight seeing began immediately as we left Husavik this morning. Myvatn is a shallow lake located in an area of geothermal activity. It is one of the largest lakes in Iceland. The name of the lake means "lake of midges" gnat lake who inhabit the place several times each summer. We batted a few that tried to fly in our eyes, nose, and ears. Fortunately, they don't bite, but can be a nuisance.

The lake itself was not stunning but is the home for many water birds. Unfortunately, our time was not spent bird watching today. We spent most of the day in the local environs of the lake hiking through Hverarond/ Hverir sulfurous steam vents and bubbling mud caldrons, created by the ground water (Ice-glacial runoff and rain) and the heat from localized subterranean magma (molten fire) pots In the Krafla volcanic caldera.

 This is a multi-dimensional experience of smell (rotten eggs), hearing (pressurized steam venting), sight (cloudy puffs of steam, bubbling pots of mud, colorful minerals crusting on the surface), touch (feet sloshing and slipping through the mud, heat rising from the ground). If you have been to Bumpus Hell in Lassen, Yellowstone park, or Rotorua in New Zealand, you have a good idea of the smell, sights, sounds, and feel of a geothermal zone.

Our next stop was in the middle of the Krafla caldera at a geothermal power plant, where we learned about Iceland's clean and sustainable power. One hundred percent of Iceland's energy is green and sustainable as long as there is fire and ice. Glacial runoff provides hydroelectric power 70% of the energy mix. Geothermal steam turbine electric provides 30% of the energy. The only petroleum imported is for vehicles. It is very impressive that the Icelanders have developed their resources to sustain their energy needs, and are now exploring ways to balance surplus energy as a market commodity and maintain the unspoiled beauty and simplicity of their island.

The geothermal plant is in the middle of an active volcanic area. In the late 70's early 80's large fissures of volcanic fire opened up on the rim of the caldera and burned for nine years, sending massive amounts of volcanic lava downhill and overland. The geothermal plant has subsequently built a large berm dam behind the plant in the direction of the Krafla fires to protect the plant in the event there are new eruptions. They have yet to test their dam theory, and the power plant is still going strong.

After our educational stop at the power plant, we headed out to the area where Krafla fires burned nearly 30 years ago. Incredibly, the lava is still cooling and there are continuing hot spots in the volcanic rubble and flows. Today was a cool overcast day, but we could warm our hands on the rocks. We climbed to the top rim and could look over the lava field and the flow that stopped before reaching the power plant.

After our hike, we ate the last of the supplies for our picnic lunch, then drove down the hill toward a blue natural bath where we spent the rest of the afternoon soaking in 3 large sulphur pools of varying geothermal temperatures. Seniors get quite a discount, almost half of regular admission.

We rented towels and speedos and took off all of our silver jewelry ( which would have immediately turned black), showered, and stepped into the glorious blue water. The water is milky like Lake Louise and your hands disappear out of sight about 10 inches below the surface. If anyone lost jewelry in the pool....oh well. Not likely it will ever be found. There were natural vents in the pools. Temperature was dynamic based on the random vents. The pool with fewer vents was cooler. The pool with more vents was warmer.

Reluctantly, we left the pools and got back in the car to continue our travel to Varmahlio. The lifting clouds revealed the dark volcanic mountains spotted with snow and was a spectacular background to the fjord and the town of Akureyri. We made two more stops along the way, one to the Godfoss waterfall (another beautiful waterfall)

and a Subway for chopped tuna salads. Hopefully, we will be checked into our hotel by 8:30.

All is well with the Worrall Travel R's in Iceland

Water, water everywhere, WTRD 5, Saturday, August 13, 2016

Iceland, North Coast, Day 4

It is late in the day, and we are bumping along on a 1 lane washboard of a gravel road on the way between Dettifoss Waterfall (the largest in all ofEurope) and Asbyrgi Canyon in the northern fjords. Just as I think I can't stand one more mile of trying to type on the bumpy road, the gravel gives way to a newly surfaced two lane road. Yeah!

We had a little drama this morning when we realized we did not have our  credit card to pay our hotel bill. We thought we may have left it at a gas station chip reader the day before. Great! Our hotel host called the gas station. While she explained over the phone in Icelandic, we held our breath until, she looked up smiled and winked at us. Phew! Since we both had a card, we asked that the gas station owner cut up the card that had been left, which she did while she spoke with us. Thank goodness for human integrity.  All is good.

Our drive today crossed long agricultural valleys,

over undulating miles of rocky lava flows

and a variety of topography with hues of rust, green, and dark grey.

We continued to take photographs of waterfalls falling from higher plateaus, taking a hike to one of them.

There were patches of blue sky and the morning walk was exhilarating. Back in the car we continued on our way to the Detitfoss Waterfall.

Before hiking to the falls we quickly ate our lunch at a picnic table. There are three consecutive falls on the same river. We hiked to the two that looked most impressive, the Dettifoss and Selfoss.


 The Sellfoss is the upper falls where several various streams and rivers lazily flow cross a plateau and tumble downward uniting in a single glacial river Jokulsa a Fjollum in the Jokulsagljufur canyon.

 The upper falls are beautiful because there are many of them fanning around a horseshoe.

Selfoss

The main glacial river travels for about a kilometer before the combined waters drop once again. The rumble, thunder, and mist created by the drop is a powerful experience. All very impressive.

Dettifoss

Well shoot, we are coming in to Husavik as I look up from blogging. I think I should have been navigating better. We missed the turn to Asbyrgi canyon....oh well. We are not going back now. Dusk is coming and we are hungry for a sea food dinner.

Russ and I check into the Husavik Foss Hotel, wander around town. The Fjord port looks a lot like Ushuaia to us, ships in a harbor with the back drop of snow capped mountains.

We find a little restaurant. Russ has charr (pink salmon), and I have shrimp creole that we drink down with a rich dark Icelandic Porter.

Back in the room, we're beat. Time for bed. We'll be dreaming of waterfalls and rainbows tonight.

All is Well with the Worrall Travel Rs in Iceland.

Seaport, Fjords, Mountain Passes, and Villages, WTRD 4

Iceland, Day 3

Today our itinerary is mostly driving from Hohn in the South east to the Fjords in the north east. We punctuate the drive by taking short walks and geocaching, finding two.

The sun and patches of blue sky were visible for short amounts of time earlier in the morning and then the clouds descended once again. Before our drive started, we did a little sight seeing in Hohn, the largest seaport on the east coast,

 filled up with diesel and stopped at a local grocery store to pick up bread, cheese, ham, tomatoes, and apples, refusing to spend $48.00 for two dry sandwiches and sodas at the restaurants and gas station pit stops. Our bill for lunch supplies for the next three days came to $30.00, better but still pricey for the basics we purchased.

As we drove, wispy mists rose from the roads, and spilled down the sides of the mountains.

At last we saw a few mountain tops appear and vanish again behind the clouds. The two lane road snaked along the coast line and around the first of the fjords. When we reached the point where the Bay out of Hohn reached the ocean, we drove out to the lighthouse which wasn't very picturesque, the the walk on the headlands in the morning mist was.

We enjoyed a nice picnic in the car as it drizzled outside and we gazed at the lighthouse in the little village of Egilsstaoir.When in Egilsstaoir, it was already 2:00 pm and we had a choice of roads, one that went over the mountain or around the mountain.

Passed by some large fish farms on the fjord.







We chose the mountain route which was shorter. It would deliver us through some spectacular scenery to our hotel near the Eyvindara River around 4:00. Ribbons of frothy white water tumbled down the terraced mountain sides like frosting on a tiered wedding cake. These ribbons of water were everywhere flowing down from in every direction from the high elevation ice fields, scouring and shaping the igneous rock into nature's sculptured artwork.

Past the hotel, once we checked in is the Seyoisfjordur, a fjord with Norwegian type architecture. Many of the eastern fishing villages have been deserted as younger generations have looked elsewhere for careers. Sayoisfjordur has been restoring their buildings and have expanded their fishing economy as a ferry port and artsy tourist destination.

At the end of the day, we returned to our hotel where we enjoyed a wonderful evening meal. Russ had lamb filets and I had the chicken. I really don't every recall eating a better piece of chicken. It was moist, extremely tasty, and so tender it practically melted in my mouth. Our wait server told us it was grown locally on a farm. Almost makes me want to raise chickens...well maybe not. But if you are ever in Iceland, try the chicken. Oh yes, the lamb was delicious too.

All is well with the Worrall Travel Rs in Iceland.