Maupiti Express

Sure Glad We Weren't in Our Boat - Saturday, August 14, 2010

When we got together with Freezing Rain, Trim, and Pincoya on Friday night, we posed the question whether our day trip to Maupiti on the express ferry was going to be a rain or shine event.  Even though it was raining as the question was posed, Ken assured us that the weather was forecasted for light winds and clear skies.  Hmmm?

It rained almost all night and was still dark and dreary when we got up early Saturday morning.   Visibility was about 1 mile.   Ken and Lori opted out as did Don on Freezing Rain.  Despite the rain and much discussion, Russ and I, Gene and Gloria, and Marie with backpacks and snorkeling equipment made our way to shore and got in the taxi that was picking us up at 8:00 a.m. and taking us to the ferry dock. 

The Maupiti Express was a small bullet-tank ferry that makes the trip over to Maupiti from Bora three times a week, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.  Since we planned to be leaving French Polynesia the following Wednesday, we knew Thursday was out as was Tuesday (provisioning and stowing day).  The trip took about one and one half hours to travel the 25 mile distance. The bounding, rolling motion of the ferry during the crossing was not a pleasant one.  Gene and Gloria were both lamenting that they hadn’t thought to bring their sea sickness pills. Marie was hanging in there.  Fortunately, Russ and I weren’t bothered, but there were buckets being passed around for those who were.

The seas got progressively bigger as we got closer to Maupiti, close to 9 feet or 3 meters, not huge but big enough that when we went through the narrow pass it was quite a rush to see breakers on either side with tons of green water and white spume on either side of us, some in front, and our skipper surfing the ferry through the opening.  We were glad to be aboard the ferry and not on our own boats.  We came through the pass around 10:00 a.m. in the morning.  It is recommended that sailboats come and leave around 7:00 a.m. in the morning when the swells are generally at their lowest.

By the time we reached the ferry dock in Maupiti, the grey clouds were blowing away and we could see blue skies.  Looked like the forecast was going to be correct.  In Polynesia, weather forecasting is not very accurate as the islands tend to create their own systems without regard to the forecast.

Our guide book suggested a two hour walk around the island, stopping to see the petroglyphs, a climb to the top of the rock by the ferry dock, and a swim in one of the lagoons.  Maupiti is a small, very non-commercial island with about 1200 inhabitants. The single road around the island was cement, and it reminded us of the quaint but sturdy roads in the Marquesas islands.  Small, tidy homes with gardens lined the streets of the Vei’ea village. 

There were some micro-small grocery stores (an open half-door with the proprietor standing between the door and a few shelves behind him/her).  Customers request items and the proprietor retrieves them.  Since customers cannot really see what is available, it is a guessing game whether you will get what you want. 

It took us nearly the whole day to walk around the island as we stopped and enjoyed the views, rediscovered other cruising friends, took pictures, had lunch in the river ravine where we found the petroglyphs of sea turtles, and snorkeled in the lagoon.  The views from the top of a ridge that we climbed to get from one side of the peninsula to the other were spectacular. 

We returned to the ferry dock about three thirty with plenty of time before the ferry took off, but not enough time to climb to the top of the rock behind the ferry.  The only reason people do this is to get the view, but we had already climbed the peninsula ridge and gotten some great panoramic shots.

The clouds had come back in, the wind was whipping up, and the swells coming in through the pass as we were going out of the pass were enormous.  We had met up with Steve and Monjula on Endless Summer during the day, and they told us of two boats that had left early in the morning when the seas are supposed to be their calmest.  One of the boats was a catamaran that was pitching straight up and down getting through the waves.  The other was a 65 foot oyster that was awash with waves. 

Steve and Monjula had a hair raising experience that morning as well.  They took their dinghy inside the reef in the channel that leads to the pass to explore the waves for possible surfing.  The outgoing current seemed to be getting the better of them even though their motor was on.  Steve tipped up the motor to discover that the propeller on the motor had fallen off!  The current was too strong for them to paddle.  They had no radio with them.  It was very, very scary as they cold see the monster waves looming in front of them and the current pushing them closer and closer.  Fortunately, a local inhabitant in a fishing boat saw them and came to their rescue, towing them out of harms way. 

Needless to say, the afternoon waves were much larger than the ones earlier in the day.  We stood on the top deck of the little ferry (not sure that was the wisest thing to do) as we went through the pass at full throttle.  We were airborne, in deep troughs, crashing through swells, getting soaking wet. It was a caldron of white water. The swells on either side of the pass were easily 20 feet high.  The boat was only about 20 feet high so these waves were at our height or higher. What a rush!  It took us several minutes to get through the swirl and far enough away from the reef before the seas calmed down to 12 or less feet.  I took some pictures from behind the ferry cabin as I was trying to keep the camera dry.  Unfortunately, I just couldn’t capture the tumult from that direction….but the camera stayed dry.  I was damp, but those directly on the bow were soaked.  Oh yeah!  We can see why some boats are stuck in Maupiti until the waves calm down.  There is no way we could have made it out in any of our boats.

Our trip back to Bora Bora took about two hours as we bucked the waves and head wind at full throttle.  Again, it was an awful ride for those who got sea sick and cold for those that had gotten wet.  By the time we reached the ferry dock in Bora Bora, our earlier plan of going out to dinner when we reach land had evaporated.  We were all anxious to take a taxi back to the Yacht Club, take hot showers, eat soup, and go to bed…..which we did. 

All is Well on Worrall Wind

Bora Bora - Bicycling around and Climbing to the Top

Bicycling Around - Friday, August 13, 2010

Both  our friends on Trim and Freezing Rain took a bicycle ride with electric bikes around the island and suggested that we would enjoy the ride too, especially if we started in the morning and cycled clockwise around the island, we would arrive at Bloody Mary’s around lunch time.  Sounded good to us.

We ferried our folding bikes to shore, assembled them, and got on our way by 9:30.  We saw Gene and Gloria on Pincoya leave on their bikes about an hour before us.  Since we hadn’t checked with them, we didn’t know which direction they had headed.  We met them half way around the island peddaling in the opposite direction.  Gloria shared with us some hot mapes....chestnuts she had purchased from a local resident.

Bora Bora is a beautiful island.  The lagoons are rather shallow which creates the varied spectrum of aquas and blues that we associate with the waters of a tropical paradise.  Because of the shallow lagoons, a deep draft boat like ours has a limit to where we can travel without going aground.  We made a decision to stay moored in deep water and visit the rest of the island either by boat, foot, or bike.

Wash basin in the lady's room

The Famous Bloody Mary

Indeed, we did end up at Bloody Mary’s at lunch time.  Of course, I had to try the famous Bloody Mary. Russ had beer.  Both were good and relaxing, but we sure didn’t feel like bicycling the rest of the way back afterwards.  Bloody Mary’s has a sand floor.  Sandals are optional.

We returned to the boat in the early afternoon with enough time for swim and a little rest before joining the group on the Bora Bora Yacht Club dock for a bar-b-que potluck and an evening of dominoes.

Saturday, August 14, 2010 – See Separate Blog – Maupiti Express

Climbing to the Top - Sunday, August 15, 2010

Today was the day that Russ, Lori, Ken, Gene, and Gloria planned to climb to the top of the peaks on Bora Bora.  This is a difficult climb and slippery. Hand-over-hand climbing up ropes to the peak is a part of the experience. I was happy to forgo the experience and spend a relaxing day on the boat backing up the computers and reading a book.

The views are supposed to be spectacular from the top, and climbers need to pick a day when the mountain is not shrouded in clouds.  Nothing would be more disappointing than working so hard for the view and then not having it.  The crew left about 9:00 a.m. and they didn’t return until dusk.  Since I didn’t go, I can’t describe the climb.  I can only tell you that when the crew returned they were bruised, battered, and muddy from head to toe.  They looked exhausted, and indeed they were. I’ m sorry I didn’t get a picture of all of them upon their return.  Russ stripped and showered outside and finally gave up on washing his shirt and socks and threw them in the garbage.

Indiana Jones (aka California Russ) Climbing up the vines through the jungle.

Spectacular 360 Degree Views

All is Well on Worrall Wind

Good Bye Tahaa - Hello Bora Bora

Russ and Roz on our 41st Annieveray

Good Bye Tahaa, Tuesday, August 10, 2010

After several days of resting and recreating on Tahaa and Raiatea (snorkeling, walking, and making a few short shopping trips over to Uturoa  on Raiatea), our time was winding down. 

Uturoa Port on Riaitea

We formally celebrated our 41^st anniversary the day after our actual anniversary at the Taravana Yacht Club at their Polynesia Dinner show with other sailing friends moored in the Apu Bay. 

It is hard to believe that a year ago, we were celebrating our 40^th at the Berkeley Yacht Club.  We called it our Triple Triumph Party – Retirement, Anniversary, and Bon Voyage all rolled into one big blast.  This year we are having a blast in a Polynesia.

Earlier in the day, we presented the proprietor of the Taravana Yacht Club,  Richard with a Berkeley Yacht Club burgee.  He had had one previously, but it had blown away during the last hurricane.  It now is displayed behind the bar.  So BYC is once again proudly represented.

Photos from Dinner and Dance Party:

Taravan Rum Pumch

Young Musicians

The Feast

The Dancers

Russ shaking his booty

Good Bye Taravana and Tahaa

We had a terrific evening.  Tahaa has been a lovely place to visit and being at the Taravana Yacht Club made it extra special.

Hello Bora Bora, Wednesday, August 11, 2010

We arose early, stowed our gear, loaded the water tank from the hose on the TYC dock, said our goodbyes, and were headed out the pass by 9:45 a.m.  We had a lovely sail over to Bora Bora, making the short passage in a little over 5 hours.  The wind was farily mild and the few squalls helped us pick up our speed.  Naturally, there was a squall coming through the pass at Bora Bora which kicked up the adrenalin, but we managed fine and were glad the pass was on the western side.  The swells and breaking surf on the southern reef were far more daunting. 

We arrived and moored in the bay in front of the Bora Bora Yacht Club.  Our friends on Trim and Freezing Rain were expecting us and Pincoya (about ½ an hour behind us) to arrive.  Don on Freezing Rain was in his dinghy passing up the mooring ball to us.  Ken passed up the mooring ball to Pincoya.

Marie on Freezing Rain was waiting for all of us to come over for an extended happy hour.  The Margaritas were already being mixed and on ice.  I had purchased tortilla chips and two big avocados in Uteroa a few days before.  The avocados were perfectly ripe for guacamole.  We had a nice Puerto Vallarta reunion and catch up evening.

Thursday, August 12, 2010

A Calm Morning

 













Russ and I took the dinghy over a couple of miles to Viatape (the only real town on Bora Bora) from our mooring. 


 There was a nice tail wind all the way which also happened to be a soaking head wind on the way back.  We spent the day exploring the little town, visiting shops, checking out the grocery stores, and reserving tickets for the Saturday express over to Maupiti, a small island west of Bora Bora.

Maupiti can be very difficult to get in and out of because the pass through the reef is quite narrow and the swells approach from the south.  Sometimes these swells can be quite large making it very dangerous if not impossible for boats to get in or out of the pass.  As we are basically cowards when it comes to going through narrow and possibly dangerous passes, but didn’t want to miss Maupiti, taking the Express from Bora Bora seemed like a perfect solution.  It would be a nice day trip.

Ken and Lori on Trim came over for dinner on Thursday evening.  We had purchased a roasted chicken in Viatape earlier in the day. Lori made a salad.  With garlic bread, wine, and brownies, we had a feast.  After dinner, Ken and Lori showed us how to play mahjong.  We only played a few hands so that we could get the basic idea.  It is the kind of game that seems simple enough in the beginning, but actually requires strategies that take a lot of practice and experience.  Kind of like sailing, and we are still learning that!

All is Well on Worrall Wind

Exploring Tahaa - 4 X 4 Expedition

Tahaa Expedition Tour, Friday, August 6, 2010

There wasn’t a cloud in the sky on Friday morning when we got up.  Apu Baie was as calm as glass.  This was going to be a beautiful day for an expedition.  Russ and I had our breakfast, donned our swimsuits and walking shoes, grabbed our snorkel gear and water bottles and were in the dinghy motoring to shore by 8:20.  We were to meet our guide in front of the Yacht Club at 8:30.

Our ride appeared about 8:50.  We met Ivan, a young Polynesian man in his thirties who spoke excellent English and is the son of Edwin who is the proprietor of Tahaa Tours.  We got into an air-conditioned truck and were on our way.

First we were going to go up the island to a bay near the Coral Gardens.  Ivan’s father Edwin was to meet us at this location with his motorized outrigger canoe and take us out to the coral gardens.  We only had to wait a few minutes and Edwin with 15 or so other people that he had picked up in Raiatea pulled up alongside the dock where the two of us got on and then we were off, skimming across the water.

Coral Gardens

Within 20 minutes we were gliding across the area where we had gotten stuck on a coral head two days before and into waters that were only knee deep.  We were instructed to wear our water shoes and not to wear our fins, as we were to walk across the motu to the far side near the barrier reef. We would be swimming back but would need to put our feet down every once in a while.   Between the little motu and the bigger one a series of shallow coral heads could be seen from shore as we trekked the few minutes to the end of the motu. 

Once we were at the end of the motu, our guide showed us where to enter the channel.  All we needed to do was to float face down and let the current (which was negligible when we were there) take us through the channel through the coral heads.  At no time were we in water that was above our chest and most of the time it was waist high.  Because it was low tide, there were times while drifting that we really had to suck it up while drifting over a coral head.  When the current is running, the drift only takes about 10 minutes. When there is a current, it is advisable to wear dive gloves so that if you are moving to fast you can push away from obstacles or hold on for a closer observation. Without a current, we gently glided along and it took us about an hour to get through the gardens back to the boat.

This snorkel was by far the best yet.  The water clarity was beautiful.  The sky was clear and bright illuminating the gardens.  The coral was alive and in brilliant colors of pinks, purples, whites, champagne, and yellowish browns. Clams with purple and aqua frill were embedded in the coral.  There was a kaleidoscope fish.  None of them seemed at all shy and seemed to enjoy swarming around us and swimming with us.  We saw tons of black sea urchins.  Occasionally, our guide would crack one open with a big stick, creating a feast for the fish.  No wonder the posse of fish was so eager to swim with us.  I wish we had an underwater camera to take photos.

Pearl Farm

After our snorkel drift, we boarded the boat and as we headed out of the shallow water, our guide passed around containers of freshly cut pineapple, papaya, bananas and coconuts for snacks.  Our next stop was a pearl farm.  I did not take many pictures here as I had taken some great shots of a pearl farm in the Tuomotus on Fakarava.    Some of the interesting facts of pearl farming though are worth sharing and perhaps repetitive of what I wrote in our last visit.  Some of the photos from that visit are repeated here.

·      Young oysters are collected off of a mesh string hung in rich breeding grounds.

·      They are pried opened less than half an inch and examined (opening their shell anymore would kill them).

·      If they possess a mother of pearl inner rim with an array of desired colors of Polynesian colors (black, grey, lavendars, and greens), the oyster is sacrificed and the fleshy tissue from the color rim is used as a graft in the pearl making oysters.

·      If the oyster does not possess the desired colors, it becomes a pearl maker.

·      Using a small round nucleus of shell and a millimeter or less from the color tissue, the pearl farmer finds a pocket and inserts both into the oyster.

·      Oysters can be used up to four times before the pearls begin to lose their luster. 

·      Each time, an oyster is harvested, a nucleus of the same size pearl that was removed is inserted thereby creating larger pearls with each generation.

·      The color graft is only done once and doesn’t have to be repeated each time.

·      After a nucleus is inserted, the oyster is opened three months later to see if the graft has taken.  If it has it is returned to the oyster bed.  If not, it is destroyed.  Some oysters consistently reject the inserted nucleus.

 

·      It takes 18 months to create the first cultured pearl, then one year after that.

·      After the fourth pearl, the oyster is destroyed.  Meats are eaten and shells are used in crafts.

·      The pearl centers we visited were over the water but close to shore.  Oysters are brought in and hung from no more than a day in the shallow water as there are too many contaminants from natural run off.

·      Oysters when they are returned to their beds are pocketed in flat nets and hung vertically off shore close to the barrier reef.  The nets protect them from predators.

·      All harvested pearls in Polynesia are sent to Tahiti and x-rayed for quality control.  If the coating on the nucleus is less than .08 millimeters, the pearl is crushed. If equal or greater than .08 millimeters it is sent back to the farmer to sell with authenticating paperwork.

·      Pearls are valued by their size, color, and luster.

The tour was very informative, and I guess because this was the second time we had heard the explanation, more of the information stuck with us.  Nevertheless, I thought it best to share it before I forgot it.  We just looked at the pearls here, but weren’t tempted to buy.  We had already purchased our pearls in Fakarava and the ones at this pearl farm seemed very expensive.

Vanilla Plantation

We came to the pearl farm by boat and left in a 4 x 4 safari truck for the rest of the afternoon.  Our first stop was to the vanilla plantation owned by Edwin and his family.  The vanilla plantation on Huahine that we had visited was small by comparison and we had not understood a lot of what the proprietor in Huahine had explained to us as he had only spoken French.  This too is a highly technical endeavor which probably justifies the reason that Polynesian vanilla is the second most expensive spice, second to saffron, in the world.

Here are some interesting facts about Polynesian vanilla.

·      Vanilla is an orchid that grows on a vine.  A vine cutting is used.  The part that grows in the soil or coconut mulch sprouts roots.  The other end sends out a runner for climbing.

·      Each flower produces one bean.

·      The variety of vanilla on Polynesia requires hand fertilization.  They do not have enough bees to do the job. 

·      The vanilla orchid has both the male and female parts for reproduction.  Hand fertilization requires a toothpick and a steady hand.  The front of the flower is pulled down and broken (this indicates that the flower has been pollinated A speck of pollen is transferred from the male to the female portion of the flower.

·      Because it takes nine months to produce a single bean after pollinization, the vanilla farmers call it “marrying” the orchid when it is pollinated.

·      Ivan said he could marry 500 flowers a day.  His mother could marry 3,000.  When flowers are blooming, it takes three workers every day to marry the flowers.

·      Broken coconut shells cover the roots of the orchids so that they stay moist but not too moist.  A fine mesh screen keeps out insects and marauding birds and the harsh sun.

·      Once the beans mature to a good size they are picked.  Sometimes they are still green and other times they have already started to turn brown.  The beans we saw here in Tahaa were 3 to 5 times thicker and more robust than the ones we saw on Huahine.

·      After they are picked, they must be dried in the sunlight until they are brown and stiff.   Because of frequent squalls, the beans are kept in cloths that can easily be gathered up and protected from rain and moisture.  The farmer needs to keep his eye on the sky.

·      During the first month while drying on long tables, EACH BEAN must be massaged by hand to flatten, soften, and distribute the vanilla beans on a DAILY basis!  That would be tedious work. 

Ivan Massaging the Beans

I tried my hand at massaging a bean and must have been too firm because some of the innards popped out of the end which renders it unusable to be sold as a whole bean.  Beans that pop are used to make flavorings.  Whole beans can be used over and over to flavor liquers and other liquids.  Currently, I have whole vanilla beans in a bottle of vodka and rum.  It will take about six weeks for the vanilla flavor to leach out.

Polynesian Lunch at the Plantation

After our morning of snorkeling and touring, we sat down at a table in the plantation’s dining room and were treated to poisson cru (raw fish in lemon and ginger), coconut bread, tarot, deep fried fish balls with sauce, mahi mahi in a cream vanilla sauce, rice, fruit salad with papaya, pineapple, guava, banana, and star fruit.  The bean I had over massaged had been used to flavor the salad.  We also had red wine and coffee with our meal.  The food was delicious….so much better than our experience with the Puddle Jump luncheon.

Belvedere

After our sumptuous lunch, we boarded the safari trucks to head to the top of the island’s mountain through wet rainforests.  The ride to the top snaked through the lush forest on the dry side of the mountain.  We stopped several times along the way so that Edwin and Ivan could explain to us what some of the different foliage was and how it was used.  Edwin spoke to his group in French.  Ivan spoke to his group in English.

Purau – Pronounced Poo Rou (Ou as in ouch)

Purau is the wild hibiscus tree native to Polynesia.  It has big yellow flowers that fall of and turn orangish yellow on the ground.  Flowers are used for medicinal purposes.  When boiled in water, the water is good to bath in.  Helps with diaper rash on babies. 

The large soft leaves were used as toilet paper, and covering over pit fires when cooking.  The bark is used for making hula skirts.   

Bark strips are dried for rope and hula skirts

Edwin showed the group how to cut and skin a branch to make a hollow flute out of just the bark.

Noni – This is disgusting little fruit that is used for medicinal purposes.  It is not eaten and smells like rotting blue cheese.  In Utah, health food stores process this plant and sell it to cure all kinds of ailments.  There were some German woman on our tour who had bought some in Germany and said it didn’t work as promoted and that it was very expensive.  It may not work, but it is a boon to Polynesian agriculture as it really is rather a useless plant here.

Kopak -  This pod produces a cotton that was once used to stuff mattresses, pillow, and quilts.  Today, however, it is no longer in use.  The rodent population apparently loves the almost microscopic seeds on the inside of the Kopak pod.  If it is used in the home, the rats are sure to invade in a few days to find and eat the seeds. 

Belvedere - 4 Wheeling to the Top

When we reached the top of the mountain, clouds were growing thicker and it looked like it was going to start raining.  It is amazing how quickly a sunny day turns to a rainy day here.  We could see three different bays in a 360 degree view.  The photos of the bays are not brilliant because the sky was threatening.

We had noticed from lower elevations these strange trees with a flat canopy.  They looked like something one would see in Africa. 

Ivan explained that 60 years ago these trees were indeed imported and planted on all of the mountains in Polynesia to provide shade for the vegetation that was browning on the mountain tops.  As a result of the increased shade, the vegetation has one again turned lush green and is thriving.

By the time we left the belvedere, it was starting to rain.  Ivan and Edwin pulled the flaps down on the safari truck so that we would not get so wet.  We slipped and slid through thick mud as we descended the mountain.  

 A few times, I thought we would have to get out and push when the pudding like mud engulfed the tires.  Fortunately, we did not as our two guides were skillful drivers in these conditions.

We returned to the Yacht Club by 4:00 in the afternoon.  We had a fabulous day.  Being with Ivan and his father Edwin who were able to explain so much and answer our questions was worth the price of approximately $70 per person for the tour.  We hope to see Ivan again someday when he brings his family to California.

All is Well on Worrall Wind