Worrall Wind Update 1/2 - Tuomotu Bound

UTC/Local Time -10: 1830/0830

Latitude: 10 57.800 S
Longitude:141 33.051 W

Course Over Ground: 217 degrees @ 3.5 knots
Wind Direction: From NE 60 degrees, 4.5 knots
Sea Swell: 8 feet, 8 seconds from NE
Sky: 5% clouds, 15 mile visibility
Barometric Pressure: 1016 up 2 in last three hours
Temperature: 84 degrees, 69% humidity

Update:

We left Marquesas yesterday morning and have been enjoying a beautiful sail. In the last 24 hours we will have traveled over 140 miles, which is fast for us. Sea swells have been mild, around 6 feet from the north east. They got a bit bigger last night and closer together rocking the boat a bit more. The moon was out shining on the waves and reflecting off of white puffy clouds. The stars glittered through. It reminded me of the opening graphics for Dream Works Films.

Russ and I had first watch 7:00 p.m. until 2:00 a.m. Marquesas time, 1:30 Tahiti time. This should be the last time change for awhile. Jess and Garyn had to the 2:00 - 8:00 shift. Yesterday, the boat IO left early in the morning from Hakatea Bay. We caught their lights in the distance in the pre-dawn hour and have been slowly gaining on them....us gaining on anybody rarely happens, but they are a smaller boat with less sail. We talked with them this morning on VHF radio and they are headed for the same atolls in the Tuomotus that we are. We will most likely pass them within the next hour.

Since noon today, the wind and seas have calmed way down. We passed IO around 10:00 a.m. this morning. They are now on the horizon behind us. We are moving very slowly at 0026/1426. The seas have also settled more. I think Jess is feeling a little better with the calmer sea state.

We are listening to Robin Cook's Chromosome and lounging about. Hot dogs and potato salad for dinner tonight.

All is well on Worrall Wind.

Worrall Wind Update - Marquesas Islands

UTC/Local: 0000/1430

Latitude: 09 20.322 S
Longitude: 140 25.772 W

We spent a fairly peaceful night in Hakatea Bay. Apparently, I slept through a squall that came through in the middle of the night that had both Russ and Garyn up checking the anchor and turning on the radar. This morning after a quick dinghy ride onto the beach where the first Survivor series was filmed, we weighed anchor at 10:00 a.m. When we arrived in the bay the night before, there were two boats anchored, Australia and Endless Summer. When we returned from our hike, there were four new boats, Avante, IO, Mojombo, and a French boat with no name. Australia and Endless Summer had left. By the time we got up, IO had already left. Proximity and Passages were just coming through the pass as we left. We are getting to know quite a few of the boats in the cruising community, most of whom are heading for the Puddle Jump Reunion in Tahiti on June 18.

By 10:25 this morning, we turned off Lehman, raised the sails, and were on a beam reach, port tack for the Tuomotus in 14 knots of wind, doing 6-7 knots. Russ commented that this is exactly how he thought the sailing would be in the South Pacific. We set Hydie (windvane steering system) to work at the helm, and we have just be lounging around as we are being carried by the wind past Ua Pou to the Tuomotus. Our plan is to go to Kauehi Atoll first 15 56.830 S; 145 10.558 W; then to Fakarava Atoll 16 04.916 S; 145 43.000 W. Then we will be on our way to Tahiti. We think Trim, Pincoya, and Endless Summer are leaving today as well for a similar route. We hope to see them along the way.

All is well on Worrall Wind.

Worrall Wind Update 15 - Marquesas Islands

Day 15 - Hakatea Bay, Nuka Hiva, May 21, 2010
UTC/Local: 0530/2000

Latitude: 08 56.626 S
Longitude: 140 09.805 W

We weighed anchor in Taiohae Bay about 9:00 a.m. this morning and headed toward Hakatea Bay, only a couple of miles west. This bay is very difficult to see, and I have to say I was freaking out as we headed straight toward a rock cliff and what looked like breaking surf on a rock. Jessica was at the helm dong a fine job of steering and fortunately taking direction from Garyn and Russ who were relyng on instruments. My visual spatial perception is seriously askew. I was ready to turn around and head for the Tuomotus.

We did find the opening to the bay and threaded through what looked like an eye of an needle. We were anchored, lunched, and in the dinghy by 12:00 noon. Hakatea Bay is a very secluded bay. It is often called Daniel's Bay, and is the first location of the Survivor series. The bay has two fingers. We anchored in the right finger, and took the dinghy over to the left finger where we found a fresh water opening into an estuary where we tied up our dinghy before taking our hike.

One of the bay's attraction is the hike to the world's third highest waterfall. The hike was one of the most spectacularly beautiful hikes we have ever been on. After winding our way from the bay back into the spiring cliffs and fording a a couple of streams, we came to a box canyon that spired into the clouds. The trail took us through banana groves, hibiscus forests, and river beds clogged with falling coconuts. At one point while we were resting on the edge of a river bed canopied by trees, the wind began to blow, and coconuts and fruits came crashing down around us. Fortunately we were not hit.

This has been a very dry year in the Marquesas which has significantly reduced the mosquito problem which is a good thing, and also reduced the amount of water coming over the falls, which is a disappointing thing. Nevertheless, the canyon is breathtaking. The photographs we took cannot do it the awe inspiring justice it deserves. At the base of the waterfall is a beautiful fresh water pool which Russ took advantage of. The rest of us, were either not ecstatic about the crawdads and freshwater eels or unwilling to wash off our 100% deet jungle juice. This canyon should be on everyone's bucket list.

The hike took about five hours, two in, one there, two out. We returned to the dinghy which was high and dry in the estuary. We walked it back out into the surf, returned to Worrall Wind for fresh water showers, pineapple maitais, and left over grilled tuna and sauted breadfruit. It just doesn't get much better!

Tomorrow morning we will explore the area in the right finger where the Survivor series took place, and then head for the Tuomotus. We expect to be at sea for at least 90 hours (3-4 days).

All is well on Worrall Wind.

Worrall Wind Update 13/14 - Marquesas Islands

Day 13/14 - Taiohae Bay, Nuka Hiva, May 20-21, 2010

UTC/Local: 0230/1700

Latitude: 08 54.959 S
Longitude: 140 06.197 W

Yesterday, we spent most of the day in town exploring Taiohae. We got up early to take advantage of shopping at the markets. The supply ship comes in every two weeks and it had come on Monday. The stores were stocked on Tuesday. When we got in late on Tuesday afternoon, we did a quick look around and saw that things were already flying off of the shelves. So yesterday, we stocked up with the things we will need for our passage to the Tuomotus and Tahiti.

This bay is very large and open. It has something called a reflective swell though which makes the boats rock back and forth on anchor and the dinghies and dinghy dock dance crazily about making it a challenge to get on and off the dinghies . When the large swells reach the seawall and crash, they bounce back out to sea. It is odd to see a wave roll towards the ocean and then a wave roll back out at you. When we first anchored, there was a very large ray cruising about the anchorage. We've also noticed there are tons of little jelly fish in the water. Not a good bay for swimming, we have decided. There are probably 30 boats in the bay, many of which we recognize from having been on the radio making the Puddle Jump with us. It is nice to connect faces with boat names.

The four of us enjoyed watching the local adolescents, all boys, surfing after school. It doesn't seem to be an equal opportunity sport here in this bay. When the tide is going out the waves hit a rock reef that is diagonal to the shoreline. The reflective swell in this part of the bay bounces parallel to the shore. When the reflective swell and incoming swell meet it makes a large "V" shaped wave that the kids ride sideways. Very interesting.

The shoreline is very well kept and their are old ruins with tikis in a parklike atmosphere. The local folks were enjoying a volleyball game the first night we were here. We enjoyed the restaurant we ate in the first night so much, we went back last night and again and indulged in big shrimp salads and shrimp curry for dinner.

Today, Garyn and Jess did some grocery shopping, while Russ checked in and out with Gendamerie, and I did laundry on the pier. The fisherman came in with a load of fresh fish around 3:00 p.m. Russ and I went to shore intent on buying both tuna and wahoo. The first load only had tuna, so we bought 2 kilos of fresh tuna. Later, our friends on Trim, indicated that another boat had come in with wahoo. Jess and Garyn went back in the dinghy to fetch some wahoo. Four kilos (8 lbs) of fish should take care of us on our passage.

Tomorrow, we head for for Hakatea Bay on Nuka Hiva. We plan to relax, do a little hiking, and leave for the Tuomotus this weekend or early next week.

All is well on Worrall Wind.

Worrall Wind Update 12 - Marquesas Islands

Day 12 - Taiohae Bay, Nuka Hiva, May 19, 2010

UTC/Local: 0700/2130

Latitude: 08 54.959 S
Longitude: 140 06.197 W

We weighed anchor at 8:45 this morning and said goodbye to Anaho Bay. We thought because of our swing pattern that we may have wrapped the chain on a rock, but with a zig here, and a zag there, we pulled up the anchor without any trouble. We motored the first hour directly into and east wind, then fell off the wind on a beam, then a broad, then a downwind run as the wind shifted on the eastern side of Nuka Hiva.

It was a beautiful sail under blue skies. We pulled into Taiohae Bay and anchored between Trim and S/V Pincoya around 4:00 p.m. After making sure the anchor was set and doing a little clean up work, we headed for shore. We walked around town a bit, and then met up with Gene and Gloria and Ken and Lori for dinner at a little pension restaurant on the waterfront for pizza and salads.

What fun we had sharing our Puddle Jump experiences. Pizza, what a treat! We will be here for a day or two to provision and to supplement our fuel supply.

All is well on Worrall Wind.

Worrall Wind Update 11 - Marquesas Islands

Day 11 - Hike from D'Anaho Baie to Hatiheu Baie

This morning at 8:00 a.m., we met up with two other cruising couples on the beach for a hike over the hill from where we are anchored to the neighboring bay where there is a little town with a couple of stores. Hiking with us were Josie and Steve from England on Elyson, and Paul and Marietta from the Nederlands on their boat Nija Foam. Paul and Marietta speak French so it was quite nice being with them because they could interpret for us.

It took us two hours to hike over the hill to Hatiheu. We did a little shopping in the stores, buying some cheese, bread, lettuce, chips, and drinks for a picnic lunch. We also stopped at the local restaurant for a mid-morning coffee. Marietta had a little game boy she was tired of and asked the young woman at the store if she would like to trade for some breadfruit. She struck up a deal with the young woman who took us all to her house at the far side of town during lunch time. We met her parents and watched as her brothers climbed a breadfruit tree to knock down these green balls the size of bowling balls. They also treated us to some other fruits of which we were not familiar. One was a star fruit, similar to a sour peach/apple, and the other was a koko orlis?? which was a prickly green ball, that when opened was a creamy consistency that tasted like pineapple and lemons. It was very good. It would make a fabulous Maitai. We enjoyed very much meeting this family and being taken to their home. Each couple carried 2 breadfruits back over the mountain. Marietta wanted us to have both breadfruits, but we just kept one and gave the other back to her. Paul and Marietta have been sailing for five years and have covered 22,000 kilometers. They came around the cape of South America.

After our visit, we ate our picnic lunch including some of the fruits, visited the town church, and headed back to D'Anaho Bay. We met Garyn and Jessica on our way back up the hill. They decided to go back to the town for another coke. Several of the children that had been playing in the water with us the day before were just getting out of school. When they saw Jess and Garyn, they wanted to know where "Russ" was? Cute. He made quite an impression on the children.

We returned to the boat about 4:00 p.m. We enjoyed a big salad, star fruit and baguettes for dinner. It's the first lettuce we have had on the boat in three weeks. We will try cooking the breadfruit tomorrow. Apparently, we can cut it up like French fries and fry in oil. We are planning on leaving D'Anaho tomorrow and heading to the south side of the island. We have a week left in the Marquesas before heading to the Tuomotus. Originally, we were planning on provisioning at Ua Pou, another island, however, we have heard through the cruising "vine" that Ua Pou's harbor is being dredged and there is no room for cruising boats. So we are reconsidering our plans and will most like go to the port city of Taiohae here on Nuka Hiva to do some provisioning and end our stay at Hakatea Baie (Daniel's Bay) where the first Survivor series was filmed before heading to the Tuomotus. We may do a cruise by of Ua Pou.

All is well on Worrall Wind.

Worrall Wind Update 11 - Marquesas Islands

Day 11 - D'Anaho Bay, Nuka Hiva

UTC/Local: 0500/1930

Latitude: 08 49.284 S
Longitude: 140 03.839 W

Garyn and Jess had a nice hike to a nearby village yesterday. We'll check it out tomorrow. Today was another day in paradise. We did a little snorkeling, reading, hiking, and socializing. Russ has become quite a favorite with the local children after he gave them balloons and lollipops. They got a kick out of using our dive masks. One of the boys invited Russ to get on a paddle board with him.

We invited three other boats over for Happy Hour this evening. Guerremo and Isabella (Spain) from Tin Tin, Steve and Monjula (Emery Cove, CA) from Endless Summer, and Steve and Josie (England) from Elyison. We are the newbies in the group. Steve and Josie left England 13 years ago, spending 5 years in the Med before crossing the Atlantic. Guerremo and Isabella have been sailng for four years, jumping off for the Marquesas from Equador. Steve and Monjula did the Baja Ha Ha in 2008 and the Puddle Jump this year. Everyone has wonderful stories to tell about places they have been. On their hike yesterday, Garyn and Jess met a Polish couple on a 28 foot boat, Asia. This is Asia's third circum-navigation. The woman is the primary owner and she did the first circum-navigation single handed. The boat is very simple....nothing to break, nothing to fix. They both look incredibly tan and fit, amazing people from all over the world.

We will do a little hiking tomorrow and will most likely leave D'Anaho Bay on Tuesday, May 18 for the south side of Nuka Hiva. We'll stay a couple of days on the south side in Hakatea, and head to Ua Pou before taking off for the Tuoumotus. I made 2 dozen corn tortillas today. We had grilled tuna tacos and cold beer.

All is well on Worrall Wind.

Worrall Wind Update 10 - Marquesas Islands

Day 10 - Marquesas Islands, May 16, 2010

UTC/Local: 0100/1530

Latitude: 08 49.284 S
Longitude: 140 03.839 W

We all had a great night's sleep last night. With the exception of a passing squall around midnight that had us scurrying to close hatches, we enjoyed the relatively calm waters of D'Anaho Bay, on Nuka Hiva. The anchor alarm didn't go off once. The bay has a little cove etched out of one side so as I look out the windows, I see land 360 degrees around our boat. Russ says it feels like Emerald Bay on Lake Tahoe. This bay has the only coral reef on Nuka Hiva. Surrounding the bay are a combination of mountains, from desert scrub low-lying hills to spiring peaks. The shore line is forested by tall coconut palms (not quite Emerald Bay).

After a few boat chores, we all got in the dinghy to do some exploring. There is a pass cut through the coral reef for dinghies to get safely to shore without having to do some crazy shore landing. We did see one sting ray scurry out of our path as we approached the shore. The tide was way out so we had to drag the dinghy quite a ways up the beach. Crabs scittered across the sand and exposed coral reef. It's much easier to drag the dinghy with four people dong the dragging than with just the two of us. The grounds around the bay look as if they have been well cared for by the local residents. Fruit tress, palms, and flowers have been planted along grassy beach meadows just above the beach. Fallen palm leaves and coconuts have been raked off the pathways into piles which are periodically burnt. Smoke from fires rises from different locations along the bay. There are a few families that live here, but there is also a little pension and an open-air church.

We met three young men on shore from Vancouver who are sailing on a boat called Mojombo. They were carrying their surf boards to the bay just east of us. It was the first bay we passed before getting to D'Anaho. It is open to the sea and they were hoping it would be a good place to surf. We ourselves walked over the little saddle to see the Bay. Along the way, a father and son on horseback passed by us. They had large satchels of something they had collected. We also met another Marquesan family, who had come over from Taiohae (south side of Nuka Hiva) for the day. They drove to the Bay to the west of D'Anaho and hiked over a path to D'Anaho. They explained to us where the path was that would take us over the hill to the Bay that has some stores, restaurant, post office.

When we returned from our excursion, the tide had come back in. Jess and Garyn had returned a little before us and were in knee high water with the dinghy chatting with a couple of cruisers. Guerremo and Isabella on Tin Tin are from Spain. The other boat, a catamaran, Endless Summer with Steve and Monjula is from Emery Cove Marina...can you believe that! They were moored closer to Trader Vics on F dock. Monjula had a thermometer and we all found a place where there was a warm current of 92 degree water. It was like a hot tub. We sat for over an hour in the shallow waters talking about our Pacific crossing experience and our plans for the future.

Garyn and Jess decided to go back to the trail the Marquesans had told us about and hike over the hill to the other bay. Hopefully they will bring some bread back with them. We can all go back again tomorrow. We weren't sure if the stores would be open on Sunday. Russ and I, feeling like salty prunes, made our way back to the boat where we took fresh water showers and are just lounging around until we bar-b-que the tuna we got in Autona on Hiva Oa. Today is the first day where I'm thinking....this is good, really good. This is what I thought or hoped paradise would be like.

All is well on Worrall Wind.

Worrall Wind Update 9 - Marquesas Islands

Day 9 - Marquesas Islands, Friday, May 14, 2010

UTC/Local: 1900/0930

Latitude: 08 56.16 S
Longitude: 139 38.93 W

1914/0944
So you are probably asking yourself, did I miss Day 8? Nope, I miscounted. I'm on island time now! ;-) Somehow there were 2, day 5's. Days 7 and 8 were in Puamau Bay on Hiva Oa. We left Puamau last night for Ua Huka. The wind picked up after we left, and we sailed at 7 knots instead of the anticpated 5. Garyn reduced sail to slow us down when he and Jess were on watch. By 4:00 a.m. we hove-to for about an hour and a half until there was enough light to approach the island and the bay we intended on anchoring in. We came into Baie Hana at 8:00 a.m. It was a fairly small, bay with an unanticipated sidewind. After a long night, Russ just didn't feel comfortable anchoring in this bay. We decided not to stay, did a drive by of Ua Huka, and are heading over to Nuka Hiva about 35 miles away to a Bay that is known for its quiet shelter and potentially good snorkeling. We need a couple of non-rolly night's rest and in the water recreation.

0200/1630
After 24 hours of great sailing and fun dolphin play, we are anchored at Baie D'Anaho off of Nuka Hiva. There are 8 other boats in the anchorage with us. There are no swells, but some wind. We are so ready for a good night's sleep, maybe a couple.

All is well on Worrall Wind.

Worrall Wind Update 7 - Marquesas Islands

Day 7 - Marquesas Islands, Hiva Oa, Thursday, May 13, 2010

UTC/Local:

Latitude:
Longitude:

Another rolly night! Russ doesn't feel secure leaving the flopper stopper up all night in the event we start to drag anchor, it's one more thing to take down and put away. So before we went to bed, we took out the flopper stopper and flopped all night....although I'm not sure we wouldn't have done that anyway in this bay.

8:00 a.m. This morning the tide was out and the surf seemed a little smaller than yesterday, so Garyn, Russ, and Jess ventured ashore in the dinghy. I just couldn't get up the courage for a surf landing and decided to stay onboard. Our anchor is secure and there is no one else in this bay. I watched them from the Lido deck through the binoculars and they made a run for it when the swells looked smaller. Just before the beach a wave caught them, however and broke in such a way that the nose of the dinghy dug down. The next thing they knew, they were in the water not sure what happened. They were able to stand with the water at waist level. They all made it to shore a little soggy and retrieved the things that flipped out with them. Garyn's sunglasses were the only casualty. Russ was able to restart the motor, so they pulled the dinghy to the high tide line and disappeared into the jungle for a look around. There were several Marquesans observing this beach landing from the church community center. It must have been good entertainment. I'm looking forward to their photos and descriptions.

11:00 a.m. I saw the trio returning from jungle. There were two small children, a boy and a girl 5 or 6 years old following them to the beach. The little boy's back had a huge tatoo on it. They had undoubtedly heard the story of the landing and were curious to see the take off. The kids "helped" drag the dinghy down to the surf. Garyn, Jess, and Russ walked the dinghy out as far as they could. Russ jumped in first and started to paddle on either side to keep the nose pointed into the surf. Garyn and Jessica were in the back and side kicking. Next Jess climbed in and grabbed the second oar. Both she and Russ were paddling, and Garyn was still in the back propelling with his kicks. Finally, when the surf line was cleared, Garyn climbed into the dinghy. They continued to paddle for a while. I thought perhaps the motor wouldn't start, but then I could hear it purring and they put away the paddles. They made quite a team and looked very organized. I'm sure the locals were impressed or at least not as entertained as on their arrival. Again, I was glad I had chosen not to go. I really don't think I could have heaved myself up into the dinghy like they did. I usually have a difficult enough time when I have fins on and get in after snorkeling in much calmer waters.

Upon their return, we unloaded the dinghy, drained it, and put it up on its davits. They brought bag two bags of fruits...pamplemoose?? which is like a cross between a grapefruit and an orange. It's a big greenish citrus, and two other orange fruits (mangos we think), not sure what they are. They bought the fruit for $3.00 at the snack shack, where the operator also collected a contribution to see the Tikis. They enjoyed their walk through the jungle. Russ said it really sounded jungle like with birds cawing and shreaking. Jessica said it was like a little suburb with landscaped little gardens in the middle of the jungle as they walked through this part of town. The town had an electric power plant, post office, and modern telephone booth. We have not seen many people with cell phones, but the town does have a cell phone tower, and Garyn gets reception. They saw stone tikis and platforms of old ruins, and thoroughly enjoyed the walk and being on shore.

Right now, they have all crashed and are resting after their exhausting adventure.

0330/1800
We weighed anchor after dinner this evening at 5:00 p.m. and are now under way to Ua Huka (pronounced Wa Huka). It is a beautiful Polynesian evening, warm with a gentle breeze of about 9 knots of wind coming from the east, and a gentle six foot swell from the same direction. Our boat speed is 4.5 knots on a starboard broad reach with a course over ground of 320 degrees . We could just see Ua Huka in the sunset lit sky about 60 miles away. At this speed, we should be there sometime tomorrow morning around 8:00 a.m. Garyn and Jess have the 8:00 - 2:00 watch. Russ and I will have the 2:00 - 8:00 watch. Jessica is a great addition to our sailing team and feels not queezy for the first time today. Yeah. We are all excited to be unhooked and saiing!

All is well on Worrall Wind.