Tasmania is undoubtedly Australia's gem of beauty,
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Penguin Island |
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Hike to Fluted Cape on Bruny Island |
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Devil's Blow Hole |
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Tasman Arch |
but it is also has a terrible past.
As the Europeans settled Tasmania, Aborigines were systematically disenfranchised of their lands, women were enslaved and the men were killed. Men, women, and children from England who may have done no more than steal a loaf of bread were shipped to Australia to prisons. Of course there were some legitimate criminals as well, but Australia became the great social experiment of England, ridding itself of undesirables. Many of the soldiers, sailors, and overseers of the prisoners were only a step higher in caliber and conduct than the prisoners. Life in the beautiful setting was harsh, unfamiliar, and cruel.
Small cells, isolation, silence, coal mines, and men working liking dogs and treated worse were all a miserable experiment in rehabilitation. Although the ruins today are interesting and the setting peaceful, Port Arthur is a sad reminder of man's inhumanity to other human beings. Very depressing!
After leaving Port Arthur behind we headed north up the coast. Tasmania has an amazing coast line etched by beautiful deep bays.
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Granite Mountains |
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Sleepy Bay |
On one of our hikes, we climbed to the Wine Glass Bay Lookout. The bowl of the glass is aqua marine with white granite sand. The stem of the glass is a long narrow inlet into the bay. Stunning.
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The Bowl |
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The Stem |
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Architectural Students Built a Lounge at the Top - Lovely!
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The weather while we were at Port Arthur and Coles Bay has been uncharacteristically cold. Apparently, it hasn't hit the lows like it did this week since 1952. We've been wearing our fleeces and thermal underwear to bed. It's hard to get out of the warm bed in the morning. Fortunately, the cold snap has moved through, but fall is definitely in the air, and I doubt we will be wearing our shorts again while we are here.
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Misty Morning |
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Our Bridport Campsite - Sunny but Chilly Picnic on the Beach |
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If you love lighthouses, you will love Tasmania |
Yesterday, we reach the Tamar Valley and had the pleasure of stopping to see a high school classmate from San Ramon High School. Mark Semmens and his wife Marion started the first vineyards in the Tamar Valley in Tasmania in 1979. They built this winery with over 35 acres when there was nothing on the hill but bush and their vision. They now have olive orchards, a redwood forest, outdoor and indoor event centers with plans for expansion and completion of projects.
We spent an enjoyable afternoon catching up, sharing in Mark's dream, and sipping wine. They make whites, light and full bodied reds.
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Harvest and Crush Begin This Week |
Last night, we spent the night at Beauty Point. This morning from our campground we walked a couple of miles into town, had a wonderful breakfast at Cafe Carbones. The couple who own the cafe are delightful people and the food was excellent, eggs benedict - gluten free!
In Beauty Point, there are two major attractions, the Platypus House and Sea Horse World. We went to both and enjoyed the movies and guided tours.
At Platypus House we got to learn about Platypuses (not platypi) and echidnas (e kid nas). These two very unique animals are the only two egg laying mammals in the world. Both are quite shy. It is not so rare to see echidnas, but seeing a platypus in the wild is much tougher. We were very lucky to have seen one last week.
The male platypus has a poisonous spur on his back foot to kill prey to fend off predators. It eats fish, worms, grubs, crawdads, anything it can find in the water and banks.
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Poisonous Spur |
The echidna has a spiny back similar to a porcupine, but does not lose its spines. Echidna males also have spurs on their back feet, but they are not venomous. It has a very long sticky tongue to help it find ants, termites, and little critters that live in holes. Mating for echidnas, as one might imagine, is tummy to tummy where there are no prickly spines to contend with. Baby echnidas (puggles) once they hatch in their mother's pouch do not develop their spines until they are ready to leave the pouch.
Neither the platypus or echidna have teats for their young. They have skin patches that secrete milk that is lapped up rather than suckled off.
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Notice his tongue |
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Hey Buddy! That's My Foot Your Stepping On. |
When we were done learning about our furry friends, we went next door to:
A marine biologist operates SeaHorse World to breed tropical fish and seahorses and sea dragons from Australia to zoos and aquariums around the world. These are fascinating creatures. The males actually incubate and deliver the babies.
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The baby white seahorse is no bigger than a sliver of finger nail. |
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A Swarm of Sea Horses |
My favorites are the leafy sea dragons. Both the horses and the dragons have the ability to change their coloring to camouflage with their environment.
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Give me a break. It's hard to be just a fish!
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It's count down time. Only four more days in Tasmania then back to Melbourne, but before we go back to the mainland, we have one more stop where the animals are plentiful. It's very educational to see these animals up close, but just like Port Arthur, it's a bit depressing to think about these beautiful and exotic creatures living in captivity. We hope in our last post in Tasmania to show you some wombats.
All is Well with the 2 Land Travel R's in Waltzing Matilda.