Iceland Day 5 - Husavik to Varmahlio via Lake Myvatn
Our journey today is about 259 kilometers. It is 5:00 pm and we are just leaving the Lake Myvatn area leaving about 250 kilometers ago. It's a good thing it stays light so long here in Iceland.
Sight seeing began immediately as we left Husavik this morning. Myvatn is a shallow lake located in an area of geothermal activity. It is one of the largest lakes in Iceland. The name of the lake means "lake of midges" gnat lake who inhabit the place several times each summer. We batted a few that tried to fly in our eyes, nose, and ears. Fortunately, they don't bite, but can be a nuisance.
The lake itself was not stunning but is the home for many water birds. Unfortunately, our time was not spent bird watching today. We spent most of the day in the local environs of the lake hiking through Hverarond/ Hverir sulfurous steam vents and bubbling mud caldrons, created by the ground water (Ice-glacial runoff and rain) and the heat from localized subterranean magma (molten fire) pots In the Krafla volcanic caldera.
This is a multi-dimensional experience of smell (rotten eggs), hearing (pressurized steam venting), sight (cloudy puffs of steam, bubbling pots of mud, colorful minerals crusting on the surface), touch (feet sloshing and slipping through the mud, heat rising from the ground). If you have been to Bumpus Hell in Lassen, Yellowstone park, or Rotorua in New Zealand, you have a good idea of the smell, sights, sounds, and feel of a geothermal zone.
Our next stop was in the middle of the Krafla caldera at a geothermal power plant, where we learned about Iceland's clean and sustainable power. One hundred percent of Iceland's energy is green and sustainable as long as there is fire and ice. Glacial runoff provides hydroelectric power 70% of the energy mix. Geothermal steam turbine electric provides 30% of the energy. The only petroleum imported is for vehicles. It is very impressive that the Icelanders have developed their resources to sustain their energy needs, and are now exploring ways to balance surplus energy as a market commodity and maintain the unspoiled beauty and simplicity of their island.
The geothermal plant is in the middle of an active volcanic area. In the late 70's early 80's large fissures of volcanic fire opened up on the rim of the caldera and burned for nine years, sending massive amounts of volcanic lava downhill and overland. The geothermal plant has subsequently built a large berm dam behind the plant in the direction of the Krafla fires to protect the plant in the event there are new eruptions. They have yet to test their dam theory, and the power plant is still going strong.
After our educational stop at the power plant, we headed out to the area where Krafla fires burned nearly 30 years ago. Incredibly, the lava is still cooling and there are continuing hot spots in the volcanic rubble and flows. Today was a cool overcast day, but we could warm our hands on the rocks. We climbed to the top rim and could look over the lava field and the flow that stopped before reaching the power plant.
After our hike, we ate the last of the supplies for our picnic lunch, then drove down the hill toward a blue natural bath where we spent the rest of the afternoon soaking in 3 large sulphur pools of varying geothermal temperatures. Seniors get quite a discount, almost half of regular admission.
We rented towels and speedos and took off all of our silver jewelry ( which would have immediately turned black), showered, and stepped into the glorious blue water. The water is milky like Lake Louise and your hands disappear out of sight about 10 inches below the surface. If anyone lost jewelry in the pool....oh well. Not likely it will ever be found. There were natural vents in the pools. Temperature was dynamic based on the random vents. The pool with fewer vents was cooler. The pool with more vents was warmer.
Reluctantly, we left the pools and got back in the car to continue our travel to Varmahlio. The lifting clouds revealed the dark volcanic mountains spotted with snow and was a spectacular background to the fjord and the town of Akureyri. We made two more stops along the way, one to the Godfoss waterfall (another beautiful waterfall)
and a Subway for chopped tuna salads. Hopefully, we will be checked into our hotel by 8:30.
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